25 Things to do and see in Harar, Ethiopia
With Harar being a unique town in both architecture and culture to anywhere else in Ethiopia, there is much to see, learn and appreciate when visiting Harar! Use this list to get an idea on what your Harar itinerary could include when visiting this historic fortified city in eastern Ethiopia.
Hand feed the wild Hyenas of Harar
Be amazed at the resourceful Harar recycle market
Smell the spices when you walk through Harar spice market
Grab a bargain at the Harar smugglers market
Enjoy a beer at the Harar Brewery
Take a tour of a traditional Harari House
Walk to the hilltop lookout
Enjoy a refreshing cold drink with a view above Harar Jugol
Take a Bajaj (tuktuk) tour around the outside 3.5km wall of Harar Jugol
Try the street food
Visit the largest meat market in Harar
Feed the swooping birds of prey of Harar with bare hands
See the Indian influenced architecture of Rimbaud Centre and Museum
Spend time at Ras Tafaris House and Sherif Private Museum
Chew the export quality Harar khat or drink Harar coffee
See the 5 historic gates of Harar Jugol
Spot the UNESCO World Heritage Signs of Harar
See the Grand Jumia Mosque of Harar
Walk the ancient cobblestone laneways and alleys in Harar Jugol
Watch the talented tailors on Girgir street
Witness the open air market eventuate at dusk
Take a drive in a vintage Peugeot taxi
Eat at the Mermaid Cafe in Harar Jugol
Hear about the shrines of Harar from your local guide
Meet the friendly people of Harar
HAND FEED THE WILD ETHIOPIAN HYENAS OF HARAR
One of the major tourist attractions of Harar is an up close encounter with a pack of wild hyenas. Hyenas are believed to be the keepers of evil spirits and the Harari have an unusual relationship with these Ethiopian Hyenas which has been developed over many years. There are two places you can feed the hyenas and I visited both when I was in Harar. It really is an eye-opening experience to see these usually fierce predators living alongside the people of Harar.
BE AMAZED AT THE RESOURCEFUL Harar recycle market
Everything can be reused and repurposed at the incredibly creative and resourceful Harar recycle market. On either side of the recycle market you’ll see a market full of second hand (and cheap) bags and clothes, people selling tools and mechanical products and stalls of shoes (both new and used). It is a great place to pick up some cheap shopping if you know what you are looking for.
Harar Recycle Market
smell the spices are you walk THROUGH Harar spice market
The smells, aromas and color of the spice market is a great place to walk around when exploring Harar.
Harar Spice Market
GET A BARGAIN AT THE Harar Smugglers market
This is a unique part of Harar with items smuggled here illegally being able to legally be sold. In the smugglers market you will find items smuggled here without tax being paid or items banned. Those that get caught with these items on the way to Harar are in legal trouble, however once the items are in the boundaries of the Harari People National Regional State then the local law comes into effect. Items that are in Harar can be legally sold regardless of how they got here. A cheap place to buy phones and electronics as well as to source banned items due to no tax.
Harar Smugglers Market
ENJOY A BEER AT Harar Brewery
Enjoy a cold draught Harar beer in the beer garden of the famous Harar Brewery. With many different sitting areas the Harar Brewery beer garden is a popular place to visit, relax, drink and eat. There are many great beers in Ethiopia with Harar being a very popular one. Harar became a subsidiary of Heineken International in 2011.
Harar Brewery
TAKE A TOUR OF A TRADITIONAL HARARI HOUSE
If you read my previous blog post on what makes Harar unique, you would have read about how the interior design of these houses are more than just decoration. The photo with me below in the main sitting area of a traditional Harari House is one of the most common homes that tourists visit in Harar Jugol. There are five sitting areas (symbolic to the 5 pillars of Islam) as well as the numerous bowls hanging on the walls. There is a guest bedroom upstairs and the local Harar guide will go through the Harari culture and reasons for the unique interior design of these homes. You can stay in a traditional Harar house when visiting Harar instead of a hotel if that is your preference.
Traditional House in Harar
WALK TO THE hilltop LOOKOUT
Whilst this walk won’t suit everyone due to various fitness levels, the fairly steep walk up a hill is worth the walk when you get to the top. Getting a tuk tuk out of town to the bottom of the hill you don’t need to be super fit for this hill walk and you can rest a few times when walking up the pathway. The view from the top is wonderful and you can see from the photo below that it gives a really good view of this Ethiopian walled town, Harar Jugol. The newer Harar city is also seen from this lookout so it provides a really good view of where everything is positioned.
Harar Hilltop Lookout
have a cold drink with a view above Harar Jugol
If you prefer not to walk up the hill to the hilltop lookout, then I recommend you visit this place which also has a great view. This is at the bottom of the hilltop lookout area and whilst it doesn't look anything special from the photo below, the view from the top sitting area will also give you a great view of the walled area of Harar Jugol. If you have a camera with a zoom lens you can get some great photos of Harar from this sitting area. If you do the walk up to the hilltop lookout then this is also a good place to stop on your return to the roadside for a refreshing cold drink.
tuk tuk tour around the outside walled city
After seeing the view of the walled city of Harar from the restaurant or hilltop lookout hop in a tuk tuk and take a journery around the outside of the 3.5km walled city. Seeing the 5 historic gates, the hyena entrances, the market stalls, working donkeys, shrines and more it is a worthwhile thing to do in Harar.
TRY THE STREET FOOD
The food in Harar Jugol is unlike most of the rest of Ethiopia, so taste the freshly fried treats in the alleys. There is always plenty of food to buy, try and enjoy!
Harar Street Food
Visit the largest meat market in Harar
In the old market square you will find the biggest and busiest meat market in Harar. Birds of prey watch from above and dogs wait patiently and optimistically for scraps of meat. Stay long enough and you’ll see some bustling activity with the men sharpening their butcher knives on the stone curb sides and people and tuk tuks moving around.
Harar Meat Market
feed the swooping birds of prey of harar with bare hands
These Yellow Billed Kites are also often referred to as the Harar Eagles and Harar Falcons as well as Black Kites. From my check with identifying the type of bird of prey with google I think the Yellow Billed Kite is the most accurate although my knowledgeable local guide told me they were Yellow Billed Falcons. These birds of prey are amazing to watch as they catch meat flying in the air with their sharp claws. For those that feel brave enough you can hand feed these magnificent birds of prey, however I was more comfortable getting up close to the wild hyenas lol. When I was watching the birds (I didn’t feed them) one bird swooped and hit my head quite hard quite unexpectedly from behind and gave me quite a shock and laugh. Not sure what the bird thought he was going to get from my head, but it certainly gave the children near me a laugh once they realised I saw the funny side!
See the Indian influenced architecture of Rimbaud Centre and Museum
For those that love a bit of history or poetry, visiting the Rimbaud Centre should be on your list of things to do in Harar. This house was built by an Indian merchant on the same site that the famous French trader and poet Arthur Rimbaud once lived. It has in more recent years become a museum dedicated to this French poet.
Rimbaud Centre and Museum
Also known as Rimbaud House
Spend time at Ras Tafaris house and Sherif private museum
Ras Tafaris House is another place of historic significance as it once was the home of the Duke Ras Tafari (Haile Salassie) who became Emperor Haile Salassie of Ethiopia. It is commonly known as the Honeymoon Palace of Harar as it is believed to have been the honeymoon home of Haile Selassie. It homes a large private collection of historic Harar artefacts and information that is significant to Harar culture and history. The front entrance door has Indian influence due to it being carved by an Indian trader.
Try the export quality harar khat or drink Harar coffee
With Harar being a major khat town with export quality khat year round you can easily choose and buy the type of khat you’d like. In Ethiopia khat (pronounced “ch”at) leaves are chewed with peanuts unlike in Kenya where they chew the inside branch and throw away the leaves! Chewing khat gives a mild stimulant effect with loss of appetite and is legal in Ethiopia with widespread usage around the country, mostly chewed by men. Large bunches of khat are chewed per person, so it gives you an idea of how much you need to feel a little effect/high. It is a slow process and a very gradual feeling. If chewing khat is not for you, then you could enjoy a cup or two of the famous Harar coffee. The coffee plantations of Harar are north of the city and they produce well-known export quality famous coffee beans.
Khat with peanuts
pronounced “ch”at
see the 5 historic gates of Harar Jugol
The main newer Harar Gate was the 6th gate and usually the first gate you’ll see of the walled city of Harar Jugol. It is the gate that easily connects the new and old Harar cities. However, the historic gates around the 4-5m high wall of Harar are the ones to spot when walking around Harar Jugol or when you are in a tuk tuk on the outside walled streets. The 5 historic gates where built between the 13-16th centuries when the Harar wall was made and are symbolic to the 5 pillars of Islam.
SPOT THE UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SIGNS in harar
There are UNESCO World Heritage Signs near the gates around Harar. I usually love capturing the photos of these UNESCO signs, however around Harar I often found them harder to spot due to so many people and so much activity nearby. When I did see the signs people were often sitting underneath and using the signs for shelter/shade. Ethiopia has 9 UNESCO World Heritage Sites, with 8 being cultural and 1 natural. Harar Jugol walled fortified historic city is one of the cultural sites recognised by UNESCO.
You can read about other Ethiopian UNESCO sites on my previous blog posts below.
UNESCO Rock-hewn Churches Lalibela CLICK HERE
UNESCO Konso Cultural Landscape CLICK HERE
UNESCO Lower Valley of the Omo CLICK HERE
A have multiple blog posts from the Lower Omo Valley, the one I’ve linked to is the Kara Tribe who live alongside the Omo River.
UNESCO signs
UNESCO Fortified Historic Town of Harar Jugol
see the grand jami mosque of harar
Jamia/Juma/Jami Mosque is the largest of the 82 mosques in Harar. As with lots of spelling in Ethiopia when translated to the English spelling there are variations in how the name of this mosque is spelt. Many of the mosques in Harar are small, but this mosque thought to be dating back to the 10th century is large enough for both men and women to pray and worship. It is a worthwhile addition to add to your list of things to do in Harar due to its looks from the street being different to what you will find elsewhere in this fortified historic city in Eastern Ethiopia.
Grand Jumia Mosque
The biggest Mosque in Harar and dating back to the 10th century.
Walk the ancient cobblestone lanes and alleys of Harar
There is so much to see and enjoy when walking these ancient paths of Harar Jugol. Take the time to stop along your walk and meet these friendly people. The colours are vibrant and abundant, the smells are sweet and spicy and the sound of children laughing and playing is joyous. If you have a couple of days in Harar you can take your time and enjoy a relaxing walk and tour the sights. If you try to see everything in one day you’ll have a lot of walking and less time to make the most of opportunities that come your way.
Walk the cobblestone laneways
WATCH THE TALENTED TAILORS ON GIR GIR STREET
Makina Girgir is the name given to the tailor alley in Harar. It got its “Girgir” name from the noise of all the pedal powered sewing machines…gir…gir. The men sew all day and it is a busy alley in Harar Jugol.
Witness the open air market eventuate at dusk
The local authorities don’t allow market sellers and stall holders to sell outside this historic gate, but as soon as the police leave the area around dinner time the place becomes bustling with activity. People flow from inside the walled city of Harar Jugol to set up areas to sell their produce and products on the outside. It seems like hundreds of people arrive in tuktuks and old wooden carts carry produce from inside the walled town to the outer open air market that is beginning to take form. The process is perfected with everyone knowing what to do and where to go. In a matter of only 15 minutes after the police have left a well created open air food market is set up and in full swing. It is quite extraodinary to watch the market eventuate with abundant activity and color.
Late Afternoon Food Market
There is a mutli storey shopping complex opposite which you can view the outside area to get a better idea of the outside gate market activity with the old city behind this historic gate of Harar.
take a drive in a vintage Peugeot taxi
Vintage Peugeots are taxis in the Ethiopia towns of Harar and Dire Dawa. Dire Dawa is the closest airport to Harar, so if you are flying from Addis you will fly to Dire Dawa and then it is a 45min-1hr15min drive to Harar. These classic Peugeots have survived the test of time with many in both Ethiopian towns. Not only are they classic on the outside, but inside some of them they are full of character and surprises! We got a vintage Peugeot from Dire Dawa to our hotel and it truly was incredible. Carpet everywhere, including the roof and seats (although different carpet types with fancy edging and tassels from the roof!) and so many ornaments, pictures and items on the dash. If you have an opportunity to have a short taxi ride in Dire Dawa or Harar then I hope you get one as character-filled and unique inside as the Peugeot we were in! This one in the photo below was certainly looked after with much pride and we have seen the same taxi since at Dire Dawa airport - so my advice is to get a taxi from the airport and leave the tuk tuk (or Bajaj as they are called in Ethiopia) to your other short trips in town.
Vintage Peugeots with Extreme Character
eat at the Mermaid Cafe in Harar Jugol
Near the main Harar Gate in the old city, you will come across many places to eat. There was one that caught my attention, initially due to its name. Mermaid Cafe is a popular restaurant for locals and the food is delicious. I was amazed by the name as we were so far from any oceans and with mermaids and pictures of boats inside it was definitely unexpected. Harar is on a plateau surrounded by savannah and deserts and is 1800+m above sea level! The staff are welcoming, the fresh juice brilliant and their food is definitely worth trying. The food in the old town is more Somali and Middle Eastern influence, whereas in the newer Harar sections of town there is more traditional food like injera, tibs and shiro! With so many cafes and restaurants in Harar both in the old city and new, there is plenty of choice and great food to be enjoyed. Although keep in mind you may not get much variety at each place. One major hotel I stayed at in the newer city of Harar for breakfast had no juice option for breakfast…water, sparkling water or beer. Beer is often a drink consumed at all time of day in Ethiopia, so I really appreciated the mixed fresh juice at the Mermaid Cafe the following morning with my breakfast!
Mermaid Cafe
I found this name so surprising in a town so far from the ocean and in land locked Ethiopia.
Hear about the shrines from your local guide
There are more than 100 shrines in Harar. These shrines show significant devotion to past religious leaders and people. Many of the shrines are under large trees like this one in the photo below. This shrine is near the traditional hyena feeding site, so when you come to hand feed the hyenas of Harar you will walk past this shrine of importance. The local Harar guides are full of knowledge and will tell you about the symbolic and unique history and traditions of the Harari people with their rich culture.
See some of the 100+ shrines
This is the shrine close to where the hyenas are fed in the evening.
Meet the Friendly People of Harar
We stayed in Harar for a holiday for nearly one week on this trip. Whilst you don’t need to spend that long here, if you have at least a couple of days you can really enjoy meeting people on your journey and make the most of opportunities. A few highlights for me with the Harari people were seeing the only female butcher in Harar Jugol in what is otherwise a male dominated career, meeting people along the streets we had met the past evening in town and being invited into Harari homes (that were not open to tourists) and so much more. Of course meeting and playing with the young children along the way is also always a highlight when I’m in Ethiopia!
The Harari people are very welcoming and friendly. They are proud of their city and culture.
These girls were taking some group selfies in the lane and I asked if I could take their photo. They said yes, but they wanted me to join them in some photos for them and for me. Full of giggles and friendly smiles it was a lovely memorable moment.
Harar is definitely a place to add to an itinerary when visiting Ethiopia. To find out more about this UNESCO recognised significant city and how to get to Harar from Addis Ababa check out my previous blog post CLICK HERE.